After several visits to restaurant which is hidden despite being located on the main road, what we are left with is mixed feelings. ‘Kalwan’ means curry, and curries are the only thing on the menu Malwani Kkalwan can’t get right. The curry, be it a part of the thali or à la carte, looks like a stagnant pool of something cooked without much attention. The fish and prawns in any dish are done just fine, though – even the unremarkable biryani – and we keep going back for the surmai cutlets which are on par with galawati/kakori kebabs anywhere in terms of texture, and the variety of soft breads which make the surmai recheido, in its thick spicy paste, a pleasantly unusual experience. But even more uncommon and surprisingly good is the vegetarian food at Malwani Kkalwan. Vegetables like gawar and bhendi are cooked in malwani masala, along with akhi masoorchi bhaaji (which is more a dal than a sabzi), are more wholesome to eat than the gawthi chicken/mutton entrées. The paneer fingers are excellent to nibble on even without the green chutney which has a special ingredient that makes us call for several small bowls of it. Malwani Kkalwan is air-conditioned and standard of hygiene is fairly good, and it would make for a better eating experience if the place removed the two television screens and stopped playing elevator music. The staff is efficient and the pricing is moderate, so if you’re not looking for a world-class meal, you should head to Malwani Kkalwan and try anything but curries at this restaurant which highlights curries as its specialty.
Timings: Noon to 3.30 pm and 7.30 pm to midnight.
Phone: 9870370399, 9870770799, 02265220404, 02265220505
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